Sunday 27 September 2009

Day 64 - Kanding, Tagong

24.09.09

In our group of 6 Israelis and one Brit I have been designated interpreter and head communication man as I am the only one who can speak any Chinese. I'm quite surprised at how much I can communicate and in all our morning dealings I haven't hit a sizable wall yet, I had to have a peek at the phrase book a few times, but the foundations of the language are sitting nice and steady in the depths of my mind somewhere. The main task apart from the breakfasts, paying and talking about the computer is to arrange a minibus for the 7 of us to head to Kanding. After some negotiations we head out at 11.30 and what I'm told should be a 2 hour journey takes nearly 5. I think the main reason is that now we are past Kanding the roads become the real Sichuan-Tibet Highway and it some places this consists of just a dirt track, the driver is going reasonably fast, but not too bad although we manage to acquire a burst tyre half way through. Once it's changed we are back on the road and when hit a pass of around 4000m the views of the land below are phenomenal and its at about this point that I notice I am out of breadth if I take a short walk and also I am starting to feel a little strange.

When we arrive in Tagong at 3400m up, it is a real one street town and reminds of spaghetti western movies where the horses have been replaced by motorbikes. This town has a real Tibetan flavour and every building is in a Tibetan style and the people don't look Chinese, there are also Monks everywhere and the main Monastery, Tagong Gompa, is huge. Me and the two Israeli guys decide to climb one of the nearby hills to get a view of the town below and the surrounding plains, it only takes about 10mins, but as I get to the top on comes a headache and I'm panting like I've run a marathon. When we get back to our guesthouse I can feel my headache starting to take route and I also feel weak and a little funny, only one thing for it, Ibuprofen. After dinner we head off to our rooms, me and my two hill climbing buddies, choosing the cheapest dorm room which we have to our selves, but the door doesn't close properly and the windows have holes in them, so it is absolutely freezing cold at night and it takes me hours to fall asleep.

Day 63 - Chengdu, Kanding

23.09.09

Getting used to the early wake ups and I'm up and out of bed at about 6.30am ready to make my way to the bus station to jump on my bus bound for the town of Kanding and the start of my high altitude journeys. As I'm milling around the hostel I end up talking to an Israeli guy and girl called Itay and Moran, who are also going to Kanding that day and we all end up on the same 9am bus heading west. Pulling into Kanding which sits at a comfortable altitude of 2616m, it is noticeably colder up here than down in Chengdu, I'm still braving it in a T-shirt as it's not freezing... yet.

We visit a few of the monasteries in Kanding and I want to try and climb one of the nearby mountains, but as it's getting dark soon and a British tourist was murdered on it a few years ago he thinks it's not a good idea. I guess he has a point, although if I was by myself I know I would have recklessly climbed right to the top. In a massive coincidence, there are two people staying in the same place in Kanding who are Israeli... they were also in my room in Chengdu, small world. About 30mins later, we meet two more people in the hostel and low and behold they are also Israeli, it gets even smaller. For dinner we hit a Tibetan style restaurant and sip Yak butter tea, eat a plate of Yak meat and lovely potato dumplings. As we are getting into Tibetan areas and approaching the Tibetan border, the architecture changes and there are a lot of Tibetan style monasteries. The people also change, starting to look different and wear more colourful clothes and seem a lot more eccentric.

The best bit about today is seeing so many monks all walking around dressed in their robes and the prize has to go to the two who were playing pool on the road side.

Day 62 - Chengdu

22.09.09

I'm not going to lie, not so fresh this morning. Eventually getting out of bed at around 10.30, I put on some washing and make my self my porridge breakfast before heading over to the local WANGBA! (Chinese for Internet Cafe), where I spend a good few hours answering emails, getting music, writing for this page and general non intensive activities. After my bash at the internet, it's a walk around Chengdu for one last time to have a look down it's old back streets as I am heading off to the wild west of China next and taking the Sichuan-Tibet highway as close as I can to the Tibet border without angering the local police force. To actually get into Tibet it seems you either need to pay over a thousand pounds for less than a weeks tour or sleep with the Chairman of China to get a permit for the area, both of which aren't really possibilities for me. Come the evening it's time to grab a bite to eat at the local kebab stall just outside the hostel and I go wild on grilled meat, tofu, dumplings and vegetables.
Today was a rest day.